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What it is really like to travel alone

My wanderlust started with a Billy Joel song. Yes, some might say it is unwise to visit a city just because of a catchy tune. But that was how I made my way to Austria with only good old Billy as my travel buddy.

In college, I took part in a spring work/study program in London. And while I loved the U.K. and my job working for a health website, what excited me most was the opportunity to travel. I spent my weekends visiting cafés in Barcelona with my roommates, and admiring Edinburgh accompanied by friends. But no one wanted to stay and explore Europe more extensively after our sixteen weeks were up. So, I decided to do it alone.

I did not set out wanting to travel by myself. It is something that young women are discouraged from doing. My own mother was desperate to talk me out of the idea. “It’s dangerous for girls to travel by themselves,” she would warn me every time we spoke. I insisted that I knew women my age who had done it, and that I would be fine. My friends back home were skeptical, too. “Wait, no one’s going with you?” they would ask. No doubt they wondered who would be taking photos of me for my posts on the Internet.

But after convincing them that just because I am a Millennial woman does not mean I have to be constantly surrounded by a team, I had to convince myself to believe it. The night before my departure I was terrified. While everyone else was flying back to the States, I would be on the Chunnel to Paris to start my two-week trip alone. The thought was disabling. I have always been a person who recharges with alone time, but this suddenly seemed like too much to take on, especially in unfamiliar places.

The journey was liberating. While I was nervous that my first meal alone would be awkward, I was not tempted by the idea of eating takeout in my hostel room, either. So, I faced the fear. I slipped on my formal (albeit a bit wrinkled) jacket, channeled my inner Cool French Girl, and stepped out into the cool spring air of the Montmartre quarter. I was going to dinner.

It ended up being one of the most memorable dining experiences of my life. I savored the otherworldly steak frites for which the restaurant is famous, observed the elegant Parisian women adorned in their Saturday evening pearls, and even ordered in the language of love. I enjoyed my glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, and devoured a plate of the most delicious eclairs in the entire City of Light. I had no fear of judgment by others, since no one knew me, nor did I know anyone.

This freedom ended up being one of the most enjoyable aspects of my trip, and for once, that did not mean feeling guilty. I spent hours riding on a water bus in Venice. I decided not to climb the Duomo in Florence because it just seemed like too many stairs. I read for hours in the lush gardens of the Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna. Though the trip was not without its uncomfortable moments, of course, my solo trip was not a mistake – for sure.

I spent the final hours of my trip wandering around the gorgeous, pastel façade-lined streets of Vienna. About fifteen minutes prior to leaving, I pulled out my iPod and listened to “Vienna.” After the familiar piano trills, Billy’s familiar voice flooded in: “Slow down you crazy child,” he sang. “You’re so ambitious for a juvenile.” I began to cry – partially from exhaustion, perhaps, but mostly because the moment felt intensely profound. Here I was, in a city I had always escaped to in my mind through Billy’s song, closing out the most incredible experience of my life. A little crazy, a little ambitious. All me.

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Agatha Christie’s secret life as an archaeologist

She is one of the best-known crime writers of all time, but few know the extent of Agatha Christie’s archaeological pedigree. What can we discover if we dig into her past?

Married in 1930 to Max Mallowan, an eminent archaeologist, Christie spent two decades living on excavation sites in the Middle East, writing her crime novels and helping out with her husband’s work. Travel by boat and on the Orient Express to Cairo, Damascus and Baghdad provided ideas for some of Christie’s best-known works of detective fiction, including “Murder on the Orient Express”, “Death on the Nile”, and “Murder in Mesopotamia”.

Now, 3,000-year-old ivory artifacts recovered by Mallowan between 1949 and 1963 from the ancient city of Nimrud, in what is now Iraq, and likely cleaned by his famous wife using cotton wool buds and face cream, are currently on display at the British Museum in London. “Face cream in fact is quite a good thing to clean (artifacts) with. Obviously conservators now wouldn’t use that, but I don’t think it has done (the pieces) any harm,” he claimed, adding that in fact it was quite resourceful of Christie to think of applying her Innoxa face cream to the fragile, dirty pieces. “Agatha, who was very conscious of being fifteen years older than her husband, travelled everywhere with her moisturiser and it was just the right consistency for cleaning artifacts,” said Henrietta McCall, the author of “The Life of Max Mallowan: Archaeology and Agatha Christie.”

Christie’s interest in archaeology, according to McCall, went deeper than support for her husband’s work and even formed the backdrop to works such as “Murder in Mesopotamia”, in which the culprit turns out to be an archaeologist. Several of the characters in the book can be traced to the people Christie knew from a dig in Ur in what is modern Iraq, including the murder victim, which McCall believes is based on the wife of archaeologist Leonard Woolley. “She made a wonderful quote on archaeology and crime detection, that they are very similar because you have to clear away the debris to reveal the shining truth,” said McCall. And Christie’s elaborate plotting and clue building came in handy when piecing together broken artifacts.

According to the archaeologist Charlotte Trumpler, “Christie was of course fascinated by puzzles, using little archaeological fragments, and she had a gift for piecing them together very patiently.” Trumpler co-curated a 2001-2 travelling exhibition “Agatha Christie and Archaeology: Mystery in Mesopotamia” alongside Henrietta McCall.

Although Christie played an important role in her husband’s work, even financing many of his expeditions, she was, according to McCall, very modest about her contributions. She was fiercely proud of Mallowan, who is often referred to as one of the best-known archaeologists of the post-WWII period. However, Trumpler believes that though Christie never publically mentioned it, her contribution to archaeology was larger than she imagined. Her notes and black and white photographs of excavation sites are used by archaeologists and researchers even today, she said.

Christie’s readiness to muck in and help her husband, says Trumpler, stemmed from her desire to be a devoted wife but also from a fascination with the Middle East that stayed with her for many years. “Everyone thinks Agatha Christie was a bit like the character Miss Marple, that she lived in England and was into knitting and looking after the garden,” said Trumpler. “Actually, she wasn’t … she had such a fascinating life apart from being an author.”

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Two years in a hut

Henry Thompson, a writer, built a hut on the shore of the pond and lived there all alone for two years. He did this for two reasons: because he wanted to 32 ______ that people spend too much time and money on food and clothes and because he wanted a perfectly quiet chance to write more books.

33 ______ to the writer, he spent only one hundred dollars a year while he lived in this hut. He raised beans on his land, ate wild berries, caught fish and “went visiting” his friends and neighbours now and then. To buy his woodsman’s clothes and a few necessities, he planted gardens, painted houses, and cut wood for his friends.

This period influenced Henry’s creative work a lot. He wrote a book called “The Wood” which 34 ______ all about these seven or eight hundred days he lived in his hut. Several other books also describe the time when he 35 ______ to live all by himself. These sold very well. In all of them Henry was boasting that he had found the only sensible way to live. “I am for simple living, and I 36 ______ being alone!” he would declare in his books. He 37 ______ you feel, when you read his books, that it is fine to walk around the fields, sniffing the wild grape and the green grass, and that no one can find pleasure like the man who rows, and skates, and swims. 38 ______, people passing by the pond used to hear him whistling old ballads, or playing very softly and beautifully on a flute, and they thought he sounded lonely and sad.

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Olivia

I never took Olivia to the theatre, but it was there I met her. I 32 ______ the habit now of going every Saturday night, usually alone, sometimes with George. It was George who 33 ______ me to Olivia Nelson. She was an only child whose father, a cotton merchant, had died and left her all he had. She was not very beautiful but she was tall, very graceful, smartly dressed and 34 ______ me at once. Olivia got interested when George said that I was a novelist. Novelists were not too common in Cornwell then, though I believe they are now as numerous as knights. Olivia adored famous people. She was delighted to meet me. It turned 35 ______ that Olivia had read my books, at least some of them and she liked them. She could 36 ______ intelligently about them. She praised them and criticized them with a good deal of common sense. She discussed new plays and new books with me. She developed a habit of being wherever I was to be found. We had a few meals together at restaurants, and I 37 ______ that I was dressing with unusual care.

She was so excited and happy, so full of good conversation, that I was charmed and captivated by her company. But I couldn’t help thinking that something was wrong. There was no 38 ______ to think the worst. However, I couldn’t make myself propose to her.

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At the office

Max White tapped on Paul’s office door at 15.00. He walked in without 30 ______ for a response. Paul looked up from the papers on his desk and said, “Sit down, Max. Please 31 ______ me everything you know.”

It was Tuesday, the eighth of July; the day before, the rumors had been rampant throughout the company that more of the top executives were going to be sacked on the explicit orders of Brent Horn. 32 ______, nobody knew who would be terminated. So most of the people were 33 ______ about losing their jobs. An atmosphere of fear reigned in the company for the first time in over thirty years, and there was gloom on every floor of the building.

Max had all the information, as he had just told Paul on the phone; now he leaned closer and confided, “I understand George Sanford was given his walking orders late on Friday afternoon. And this week we’ll see the 34 ______ of Jim Cooper and John Turner, two good men.” It was terrible news. They had been with the company about as long as Paul had. They were among Brent Horn’s big supporters when he was trying to get the company back from the DeWitts. They were much 35 ______ by everyone. Paul couldn’t 36 ______ of their dismissal. He was truly shocked, and it showed. The company had changed the moment Brent Horn had taken control, and it genially concerned him.

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